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Microneedling is an increasingly popular treatment to rejuvenate skin, using multiple tiny micropunctures. Its fame in recent years is due to YouTube and some dramatic photos of the Kardashians showing having microneedling treatments.

Originally this was done manually, using the rollers or stamps (Dermaroller, Dermastamp).

The dermaroller procedure uses tiny needles to prick the skin, and claims to create new collagen and skin cells for firmer, smoother skin.

The process has become so popular that you can now buy “dermarollers” online and carry out the procedure at home, but experts are warning that this could be incredibly dangerous.

Skincare specialists are warning against people dermarolling at home. They say microneedling could cause significant damage if it isn’t carried out by experts.

The worry is that the boom of seductively affordable at-home products are convincing more and more people to try microneedling on themselves, without taking any of the proper precautions.

‘Buying a cheap dermaroller online can really damage your skin, rather than improve it. Dermarollers and micro-needle treatments need to be done professionally by someone who has trained extensively in this area, and we strongly advise people to not be drawn in by the cheap price points and accessibility,’ says Farzila Allarakha, an aesthetic practitioner at Neo Elegance.

‘Microneedling is a form of controlled wounding that is designed to initiate healing within the skin,’ Farzila explains.

‘It is a long term, in clinic, treatment and it can take up to a year to see a difference. This is not a quick fix treatment at all.

‘It involves the insertion of tiny needles into the skin, they need to be sterile and technique is key. If there is a failure to administer the treatment effectively, it can result in many serious skin and health issues, including necrotising fasciitis.

Microneedling works by encouraging the skin to make more collagen. The pinpricks from the roller cause a slight injury to the skin and that in response, the skin makes new collagen-rich tissue.

This new skin tissue is then smoother and more even. The extra collagen can also help the skin to look and feel firmer and more bouncy. And the short-term results are all pretty immediate.

With so many benefits it isn’t surprising that women are jumping on the microneedling trend – and if you can do it without making an expensive appointment at a fancy clinic, then all the better.

But without the regulation and expertise of a dermatologist, the procedure can easily lead to scarring and complications – and when it comes to your face, you really don’t want to get this one wrong.

‘Given the nature of the treatment, a sterile, professional environment is required to avoid infection while a numbing agent is often beneficial to ensure a pain-free application for the patient,’ Dr. Aarti Narayan-Denning tells

Dr. Dr Aarti Narayan-Denning, from Reverse Time clinic has some pretty scary warnings for people tempted by at-home options.

‘The home user is more likely to miss the contraindications, such as a breakout of herpes (cold sores), rosacea, acne, skin cancer, or thin skin from steroid use – and end up with infection and scarring,’ she explains.

‘The FDA is expected to soon regulate home microneedling devices. Many devices bought online are not of surgical grade.

‘Studies have shown that such needles cause tiny tears in skin rather than the finely controlled injury that triggers healthy healing. There is also the risk of flimsy needles breaking off and getting embedded into skin – major risk for scarring and infection.’

And aside from the dangers, Dr. Narayan-Denning says the at-home microneedling options don’t produce the best results for your skin.

‘Not only this but professionals often offer combination therapies such as radio frequency and PRP to amplify and extend the results along with a medically-proven skincare regime.

‘Over the counter derma rollers are also generally insufficient when it comes to impairing the barrier function of the skin and therefore having a substantial, visible result for the patient – so the risks certainly outweighs the benefits.’

So if you do want to emulate the Kardashians, it might be best to leave this one to the experts. It’s really not worth messing up your face for the sake of a temporary facial boost.

dermaroller microneedling to face